Author Archive | Edible Hudson Valley

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IN SEASON: WINTER 2016-2017

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PHOTOGRAPH: CAROLE TOPALIAN

WHAT’S FRESH • WHAT’S LOCAL

WINTER

Apples • Beans • Beets • Cabbage
Carrots • Collard Greens • Leeks
Onions • Parsnips • Pears • Potatoes
Turnips • Winter Squash
Other long lasting fruits and vegetables
may also be available from storage.
And don’t forget about local meats, eggs,
cheese, herbs, honey and preserves.

SPECIAL THANKS TO PRIDE OF NEW YORK,
A PROGRAM OF THE NEW YORK STATE
DEPARTMENT OF AGRICULTURE.

RECIPE

SQUASH CASSOULET

 

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whiskwayside

Wayside Cider

Cultivating Catskills heritage through cider

whiskwayside
PHOTOGRAPH: NATALIE CHITWOD

Alex Wilson’s cider making began as a young man in England when he paired up with a friend’s grandfather to learn the process. In 2008, Wilson moved to the Catskills and met Irene Hussey, his business partner, during a cider contest at Table on Ten, the restaurant in Bloomville. Hussey won the cider contest; Wilson came in second. When someone suggested they pair up, they took the advice and formed Wayside Cider. The partnership has turned out to be one of the best pairings since ham and cheese, judging both by their exquisite cider and reverential stewardship of their land.

Wilson owns a 25-acre property, which he bought with his wife eight years ago when they needed an escape from Manhattan life. Hussey is a Catskills native herself, having grown up on her family farm in Delhi, a childhood that was both idyllic and hard work. With a passion for the land, she left the Catskills to study environmental studies at Carlton College in Minnesota. She had done trail maintenance work in Minnesota but wound up returning to the Catskills about five years ago. “It happened to be a good time for cider in terms of public interest, and New York State has been pretty supportive of small craft beverage producers in the last few years.”

The pair produced a test batch of cider in December 2013 using apples from Diamond Orchard Farms in Ithaca. They liked the result and decided to go ahead with their cider business in 2014, purchasing a cider press that runs on water and installing it at the Hussey orchard in Delhi. By the wayside is where you’ll find “the apples that aren’t picked up,” says Wilson. “They’ve been abandoned. They’re never going to be picked.” And there’s something of the championing of the underdog in his ethos, as if the wild apple has been underappreciated and ill favored by the public, who prefers perfection in their fruit. Consumers won’t buy ugly or misshapen apples, but the cider apple doesn’t have to be gorgeous.

Wayside Cider began selling in 2015, and the result was like a fine, sparkling wine: light, delicately balanced and flavorful. Three batches of cider were offered for sale: Skinny Dip, Halfwild and Catskill. This year, Skinny Dip was replaced with a dry crabapple blend called Dry Town, a name that gives a nod to Hussey’s character.

Both enthusiastic perfectionists, Wilson and Hussey are fond of experimenting and blending their cider to acquire a taste that suits them. “We tend toward longer, slower, colder ferment, which I think produces a slightly more complex, interesting flavor,” Hussey says. Hussey has even used an old method of carbonation to make the cider sparkling, occasionally “doing a wild fermentation with the naturally occurring yeast that is already kicking around.”

Extraordinary attention to detail has been paid to the heritage of cider and the humble New York apple. The pair forage for most of their apples by hand using bushel baskets on neighbors’ land. Apples that were foraged in last year’s abundant season were supplemented by dessert apples from the Hudson Valley.

Wilson and Hussey are in this for the long haul. They recently purchased a large barn and its accompanying carriage house in Andes, which now houses their tap room. The tap room offers a small bar menu with simple, reasonably priced local fare.

Of their dream to develop the perfect Catskills apple, Wilson says, “Irene and I are thinking 100 years ahead in terms of tree development and everything else. With agriculture, we live in a world where you have to be the next big thing tomorrow. Well, no, actually, everything that’s good takes time. It’s going to be 15 years before we see the fruits of the experiments we’re doing now.”— J. N. Urbanski

Wayside Cider
55 Redden Lane, Andes
845.676.6002
waysidecider.com

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A GOOD BYE

goodbye

Since 2009, Edible Hudson Valley has celebrated the food culture of one of the most bountiful, beautiful regions on the face of the earth. We have shared the stories of the farmers, chefs, home cooks, vintners, brewers, producers and advocates who, through their passion and dedication, provide the food that nourishes our bodies as well as our communal souls.

This issue marks the last time Edible Hudson Valley will be published by its full founding team. A combination of business and personal reasons have led us to sell the magazine, and while it is certainly a bittersweet moment, we are so delighted that new owners Jennifer Solow, Tom Jacoby and son Damon Jacoby will be guiding our “baby” into its next era. Their vision and enthusiasm are invigorating, and we look forward to their debut issue and many other new initiatives this Spring.

Publishing a magazine is not an easy pursuit. It, too, requires passion and dedication, commitment and creativity. To borrow a phrase, the journey of Edible Hudson Valley has been its own reward. Its path was made brighter (and much more fun) from the start for me and my husband (and business partner) Ray by the participation of a few very special, immensely talented individuals: our treasured friends, associate publisher Helen Coyle Bergstein and her husband Joe Bergstein, our thoughtful and brilliant editor Eric Steinman, our graceful and magical design director Debra Trisler, our lifelong pal and distribution manager Paul Misko. The abiding love that these five individuals have for this region as well as their heartfelt respect for the art of food and the individuals who create it have shone through on every page of this magazine and in every step of this endeavor. As the years went on, they were joined by Kathleen Reynolds, the ever-welcoming voice of our social media network, our relentless and wise copy editor Carrington Morris, our sales team of Eric Derby, Stacy Ciaravella and Nicole Ross, and our business manager Nan Fribley.

As we have given expression to our local food movement, our pursuit was made possible by the countless advertisers who believed in our mission. We are so grateful to them for providing the funding to support our pursuit. We were further buoyed by the talents of our many writers and photographers. Many of these partners have been with us since our first year, and all of them share our commitment to a thriving local food culture and economy.

Last but not least are you, our readers. Knowing that you were reading, watching and ready to savor the stories we shared has been our inspiration. We thank you for joining us on this path.

As for me, I have often thought of one singular, sparkling morning in February, not long after we had decided to start the magazine. I had just crossed the Bear Mountain Bridge and was driving along Route 9D, headed up to meet Kate Osofsky at Ronnybrook Farm. The road ran high above the river, and you could look down through semi-bare trees and see the mighty Hudson flowing along in its eternal majesty against the backdrop of the Hudson Highlands and crystal blue skies. Once again, as so often since my earliest memories, I was awestruck by the Hudson.

The river and its region run deep for me, and I hope in some small way we have contributed to its betterment through Edible Hudson Valley.

Thank you,
Nancy Brannigan Painter
Publisher

“Eventually, all things merge into one, and a river runs through it. The river was cut by the world’s great fl ood and runs over rocks from the basement of time. On some of the rocks are timeless raindrops. Under the rocks are the words, and some of the words are theirs. I am haunted by waters.”
—Norman Maclean, A River Runs Through It and Other Stories

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imprintstilllife

EDIBLE IMPRINT: STILL LIFE (Kitchen Shots)

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STILL LIFE (Kitchen Shots)
Dana Hoey

Visual artist and photographer Dana Hoey lives in the Hudson Valley and does so with enormous gusto. She gardens and tends to a stable of animals, including a donkey. This image, which departs radically from her known artwork that deals with the human physical form, is from her recent series of impromptu flirtations with traditional 15th-century Dutch still-life forms that she shot quickly in her kitchen. They are simple, rustic and evocative of the history of painting as well as the bounty of the season past. Hoey is represented by Petzel Gallery, New York, and has presented solo museum exhibits at the Hirshhorn Museum and Sculpture Garden in Washington, DC, the Center for Art, Design and Visual Culture at the University of Maryland, and the University Art Museum at the University at Albany.

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EDIBLE MARKET ADVERTISER DIRECTORY

This issue of Edible Hudson Valley has been made possible thanks to the support of our advertisers. Support their businesses this season—and tell them you saw their ad in Edible Hudson Valley!

CATERERS & PHOTOGRAPHERS

HARVEST REAL FOOD CATERING | Farm-to-table catering celebrating the seasonal bounty of the Hudson Valley, from a simple backyard BBQ to an elegant country wedding. 4496 Route 209, Stone Ridge, 845.687.4492. harvestrealfoodcatering.com

VIK PHOTOGRAPHY | Vik Photography specializes in wedding and portrait photography. Photography is a passion, and Vik is here to capture you at your very best through every image taken. 609.933.3680. vikmphoto.com

DAIRY

RONNYBROOK FARM DAIRY | Ronnybrook’s milk products have been made the same way for three generations: in small batches, delivered at peak freshness, pasteurized and hormone free. 518.398.6455. ronnybrook.com

DESTINATIONS, EDUCATION & EVENTS

CARY INSTITUTE OF ECOSYSTEM STUDIES | Dedicated to research and education about ecological systems, this renowned institute helps further the understanding of the natural world through guided hikes, workshops, and events. Sharon Turnpike (Route 44), Millbrook, 845.677.5343. ecostudies.org

SULLIVAN COUNTY CATSKILLS | Enjoy adventure, concerts, art galleries, gourmet dining and more in the spectacular hills of Sullivan County. Also home to a wonderful array of farms and shops/destinations for food lovers. scva.net

FARMS & FARM MARKETS

DOWN TO EARTH FARMERS MARKETS | Since 1991, Down to Earth Markets has brought together local farmers and area food makers who source locally, creating opportunities for them to sell to consumers at markets throughout southern NYS. 914.923.4837. downtoearthmarkets.com

HAWTHORNE VALLEY FARM MARKET | This “green-designed” store offers a full line of organic/ natural foods, including local produce, meats and baked goods as well as dairy products from their own farm. Open daily. 327 Route 21C, Ghent (Harlemville), 518.672.7500. hawthornevalleyfarm.org

HEMLOCK HILL FARM & MARKET | Hemlock Hill Farm is dedicated to providing the community with all natural, wholesome farm-raised products. Take a tour (May through October) or visit the farm store. Open every day of the year. 500 Croton Avenue, Cortlandt Manor, 914.737.2810. hemlockhillfarm.com

PURE CATSKILLS | By using sound environmental practices, Catskills farmers provide food that is healthy and water that is pure. Buy local from a Pure Catskills farmer and/or artisan and contribute to the future of the region. Shop their site for gifts this season. purecatskillsmarketplace.com

FARMERS MARKETS

CALLICOON FARMERS MARKET | Fresh, high quality, locally produced goods. Outdoors through November 13 at A. Dorrer Drive, Callicoon Creek Park then indoors at 8 Creamery Road, Delaware Youth Center. Sundays 11am- 2pm. callicoonfarmersmarket.org

RHINEBECK FARMERS MARKET | Sample and shop the very best flavors of the Hudson Valley. Through Thanksgiving at the municipal parking lot on East Market Street. Indoors at Town Hall starting early December. Sundays 10am – 2pm. rhinebeckfarmersmarket.com

GOURMET & ARTISANAL FOODS

APPLESTONE MEAT COMPANY | Butcher Joshua Applestone and his wife Jessica opened Fleisher’s in 2004 with a focus on humanely, sustainably raised meat. The tradition continues now at Applestone, which offers home delivery and workshops. 4737 US-209, Accord, 845.626.4444. applestonemeat.com

CHEESE LOUISE | This shop’s wonderful array of local and imported cheeses, meats, chocolates and more make it a great shopping and gift buying destination. Stay for soup and a sandwich. 940 Route 28, Kingston, 845.853.8207. cheeselouise.ny.com

HARDWICK BEEF | With a devotion to health and sustainability, Hardwick Beef comes from 100% grass-fed cattle with no antibiotics or added hormones. Available at area stores, such as Mother Earth Storehouse and Beacon Natural Market. 413.477.6500. hardwickbeef.com

GROCERS, MARKETS & CO-OPS

ADAMS FAIRACRE FARMS | From its start in the early 1900s, Adams Fairacre Farms is still a family-owned grocer and always committed to quality and customer satisfaction. Kingston: 1560 Ulster Avenue, 845.336.6300; Newburgh: 1240 Route 300, 845.569.0303; Poughkeepsie: 765 Dutchess Turnpike, 845.454.4330; and Wappinger: 160 Old Post Road, 845.632.9955. adamsfairacrefarms.com

BEACON NATURAL MARKET | Dedicated to providing wholesome goodness for their customers, Beacon Natural Market features organic and locally grown produce, dairy, grassfed meats and more. Open daily. 348 Main Street, Beacon, 845.838.1288. beaconnaturalmarket.com

MOTHER EARTH’S STOREHOUSE | Founded in 1978, Mother Earth is committed to offering the best customer service along with the highest quality organic and natural products. Kingston: Kings Mall, Route 9W N., 845.336.5541; Poughkeepsie: 1955 South Road, 845.296.1069; motherearthstorehouse.com

NATURAL CONTENTS KITCHEN | Natural Contents Kitchen serves clean, unadulterated ingredients sourced seasonally from regional farms for an Eat Better Feel Better approach to living. Gluten and grain free; paleo and vegan friendly. Find them at local farmers markets, restaurants and retail outlets. 888.551.8625. naturalcontents.com

QUATTRO’S POULTRY FARM & MARKET | This friendly family farm market offers chickens, pheasants, ducks, geese, turkeys, venison, custom-cut prime meats, and more. Onsite smokehouse, wide variety of craft beers, and ice cream bar! 2251 Route 44, Pleasant Valley, 845.635.2018. quattrosfarm.com

SUNFLOWER NATURAL FOODS MARKET | With the highest quality and largest selection of organic produce & natural products, this family owned business has a passion for locally handcrafted food and gifts. 75 Mill Hill Road, Woodstock, 845.679.5361. Sunflower Cafe & Juice Bar, 24 Garden Street, Rhinebeck, 845.876.0798. sunflowernatural.com

HOME & HEALTH

HAMMERTOWN | At this award-winning home and lifestyle store, each item, whether it be an antique, a piece of furniture, or kitchenware, is selected with design, purpose, and style. 3201 Route 199, Pine Plains, 518.398.7075; Montgomery Row, Rhinebeck. 845.876.1450; also in Great Barrington, MA. hammertown.com

HOULIHAN LAWRENCE | Serving Westchester, Fairfield, Dutchess and Putnam counties, Houlihan Lawrence offers over 26 offices and more than 1,200 realtors throughout NY and CT to help you buy or sell your home. In the Millbrook area, contact them at 845.677.6161. houlihanlawrence.com

MARY MULLANE HUDSON VALLEY REAL ESTATE | Find real estate, homes for sale, properties for rent, schools, commercial property, neighborhood information and much more. 345 Warren Street, Hudson, 518.828.2041. marymullane.com

MISKO HOME DESIGN | In addition to interior painting and moulding, Paul Misko also hand crafts custom coffee tables, cutting boards, and other works in wood. 845.744.8679. woodvalleybear@gmail.com

NEST REALTY CO. | Connecting you to the life you want to live. Buy/Sell—Call Helen Coyle Bergstein, 845.417.7242; helen@nestrealtyco.com. nestrealtyco.com

WARREN KITCHEN & CUTLERY | This true kitchenware emporium is a place where inspired chefs and cooking enthusiasts can find their favorite knives, cookware, appliances, kitchen tools, and serving pieces for home or restaurant. 6934 Route 9, Rhinebeck, 845.876.6208. warrenkitchentools.com

WEST CHESTER CENTER FOR NATURAL HEALTH | Naturopathic doctor Abigail Egginton specializes in natural pediatrics, women’s health, nutrition, herbal medicine, chronic disease, homeopathy, craniosacral therapy and oncology. 426 Bedford Road, Pleasantville. 914.919.9300. westchesternaturalhealth.com

INNS & B&Bs

THE ARNOLD HOUSE | A lively getaway in the Catskills, this inn offers a tavern, woodstoves & cookies in the winter; music, BBQ bonfires & s’mores in the summer. 839 Shandlee Road, Livingston Manor, 845.439.5070. info@thearnoldhouse.com. thearnoldhouse.com

BEAR MOUNTAIN INN | Overlooking Hessian Lake, this historic inn provides fine food and overnight accommodations along with scenic views and breathtaking hiking along the Appalachian Trail. Escape and enjoy nature’s medicine. 55 Hessian Drive, Bear Mountain, 845.786.273. visitbearmountain.com

EMERSON INN & SPA | Boasting award winning accommodations, dining, shopping, catering, and a spa experience that is second to none, The Emerson Inn & Spa is a perfect getaway for a romantic weekend or a family adventure. 5340 Route 28, Mt. Tremper, 845.688.2828. emersonresort.com

THE NORTH BRANCH INN | This Catskills inn features beautiful guest rooms, a bar room & restaurant, a two-lane wooden bowling alley, and a library house with a wood stove.… Read More

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kitartwhey2

Gin Blossom

kitartwhey2

Makes 1 cocktail

2 ounces Hendrick’s gin
2 ounces whey
½ ounce fresh lemon juice
1 ounce simple syrup
2 dashes orange blossom water
Orange peel twist

Fill a shaker with ice and add all the ingredients but the twist. Shake until frothy and cold, then strain into a rocks glass over fresh ice. Garnish with the twist.

*Note: If you are not feeling kitchen crafty, whey can be purchased at Hawthorne Valley Farm Store in Ghent, among other places in the Hudson Valley, and may be easily procured from a local dairy, if asked nicely. Fresh whey can usually be kept a week in the fridge and about three months in the freezer.

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kitartwhey

Chhenna

From Milk: The Surprising Story of Milk Through the Ages by Anne Mendelson (Knopf, 2008)

Makes about 8 ounces (1 cup) chhenna, 7 cups whey

2 quarts whole milk (local and/or organic)
¼ cup freshly squeezed lemon or lime juice

Pour the milk into a heavy-bottomed 4-quart saucepan. Bring to a boil over high heat, stirring to keep the bottom from scorching. When it starts boiling up in earnest, remove from the heat and promptly strain the lemon or lime juice into the milk, stirring it gently. The milk should rapidly separate into clouds of white curd in a greenish-yellow whey. (If this doesn’t happen, add another spritz of juice.) Let stand for 8 to 10 minutes.*

Line a strainer or colander with tight-woven cheesecloth or other clean cotton cloth, set it over a deep bowl, and use a skimmer or shallow ladle to carefully lift out the larger clumps of curd into the cloth. Very gently pour in the whey with the remaining curd.

Let drain for a few minutes. Tie the corners of the cloth into a bag. Holding the bag by the tied corners, briefly rinse the curd under cold running water to remove a little of the lemon taste. Gently squeeze the bag in your hands to press out some of the water. Now you can either hang it up to drain further until it is a little softer than cream cheese (usually about 1½ to 2 hours; suspend it on the kitchen faucet or a wooden spoon set over a deep bowl) or speed the process as follows: Flatten the bag of curd into a rough disc or rectangle, put it on a plate, and cover it with another plate. Place a weight (a heavy can, a couple of large beach pebbles) on the top plate and let stand for about 30 minutes, periodically draining off any overflow. It can then be used as is, but will be easier to work with if you cream it with a large wooden spoon in a bowl or with the heel of your hand on a flat work surface. Imagining that you are creaming butter for a cake or putting a pâte brisée through the stage called “fraisage,” work the cheese very, very smooth a little at a time. If you are not using it at once, pack it into a container and refrigerate, tightly covered. It is extremely perishable and should be used within 3 to 4 days.

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crispywheypot

Crispy Whey-Braised Potatoes

crispywheypot

Serves 4 as a side dish

1 pound small red potatoes
1½ cups whey
1½ tablespoons ghee, melted
½ teaspoon sea salt
Smoked salt
2 tablespoons minced rosemary

Preheat oven to 400º.

Halve the potatoes the long way. Place them in a single layer in a large sauté pan. Add the whey and place the pan over medium-high heat. Cover and simmer until fork tender, about 15 minutes.

Using tongs, transfer the potatoes to a large bowl, discarding any whey that hasn’t been absorbed. Add the ghee and sea salt and toss to coat well. Spread the potatoes out, cut-side down, on a baking sheet, and lightly smash with the flat side of a large spoon or the bottom of a glass. Roast until golden and crisp, about 30 minutes.

Lightly season with smoked salt, garnish with rosemary, and serve warm.

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grilledcheese

The Diva of Grilled Cheese

(Taken from My Kitchen Year, Random House 2015)

Makes 1 sandwich

Shallots
Leeks
Scallions
1 onion (any color)
1 clove garlic (minced)
¼ pound cheddar cheese
Butter
2 slices sturdy sourdough bread
Mayonnaise

Gather a group of shallots, leeks, scallions and an onion—as many members of the allium family as you have on hand—and chop them into a small heap. Add a minced clove of garlic. Grate a few generous handfuls of the best cheddar you can afford, set a little aside, and gently combine the rest with the onion mixture.

Butter one side of each piece of thickly sliced bread and heap as much of the mixture as possible between the slices (butter facing in). Spread a thin layer of mayonnaise on the outside of the bread (this will keep it from scorching on the griddle).

Press the reserved grated cheese to the outside of the bread, where it will create a wonderfully crisp and shaggy crust, giving your sandwich an entirely new dimension.

Fry on a heated griddle or in a skillet about 4 minutes a side, until the cheese is softly melted.

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squash

Squash Cassoulet

Recipy courtesy of
ESSIE’S RESTAURANT
14 Mount Carmel Place, Poughkeepsie
845.452.7181
essiesrestaurantpk.com

Chef/owner Brandon Walker opened up his first restaurant, Essie’s, earlier this year in the Mt. Carmel neighborhood of Poughkeepsie— an area that had, decades earlier, been a thriving hub for the city’s Italian community. Walker, a Brooklyn native and graduate of the CIA in neighboring Hyde Park, named the restaurant after his grandmother and uses the menu to explore both local and seasonal ingredients. He incorporates the cultural influence of the area as well, creating dishes from Caribbean to South American to, of course, Italian cuisines. In winter, Walker likes to indulge his comfort impulses with dishes like osso buco and this standout vegetarian version of cassoulet. —E. Steinman

SQUASH CASSOULET

Serves 6

  • ¾ pound Goya 16-bean soup mix (or mix of any of the following: pinto beans, small red beans, pink beans, red kidney beans, great northern beans, baby lima beans, large lima beans, black-eyes peas, small white beans, black beans, whole green peas, yellow split peas, green split peas, lentils, chickpeas)
  • 4 ounces olive oil
  • 1 medium onion, medium dice
  • 1 pound cremini mushrooms, sliced
  • 4 cloves garlic, chopped
  • 1 carrot, medium dice
  • 2 stalks celery, medium dice
  • 1 delicata squash, medium dice1 red kuri squash or kabocha squash, medium dice
  • 1 tromboncino (aka zucchetta) squash or zucchini squash, medium dice
  • Vegetable stock or water as needed
  • 1 sprig thyme
  • ½ sprig rosemary
  • Salt & pepper, to taste
  • Cashew cream (recipe below)

Add 16-bean soup mix to a pot of water and bring to a boil. Set aside for 30 minutes.

In a separate pot over medium heat, add olive oil and onions. Caramelize the onions until brown, then add the mushrooms, garlic, carrots, celery and cook until all are lightly brown. Strain the 16-bean soup mix from the water and add to mushrooms and onions mixture; also add delicata, red kuri and tromboncino squashes.

Add vegetable stock, thyme, rosemary; bring to a boil, then lower to a simmer until all vegetables and legumes are tender. Season to taste with salt and pepper and finish with cashew cream to your desired consistency and creaminess. Serve in desired vessel. Note: The more cashew cream you use the creamier and thicker the dish will get.

CASHEW CREAM

  • 2 cups cashews
  • Water, as needed

Add cashews to a blender with water (a teaspoon or two) and blend until smooth, then reserve.

Note: Use enough water to make a puree. As you blend, the mixture will thicken. Use water (a teaspoon at a time) to adjust consistency in blender.

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