Farm Chic

FARM CHIC

Much more than a bucolic facade,
the Stone Barns Center can make
you a farmer for life—or just an afternoon.

farm
Photograph: Nicole Franzen

BY JANE BLACK

M

aybe I was pecked to death in a past life. Maybe it’s the way most chicken coops smell—musty and dank finished with a powerful punch of ammonia. But the truth is, I’ve always been a little afraid of chickens. That’s hard to admit for a food writer, especially a New York City–based one who, naturally, yearns for some country cred.

And so as I stood in front of the chicken house at the Stone Barns Center for Food and Agriculture, I felt my heart start to beat a little faster and a familiar anxiety rise into my chest. Look at this chicken barn, I told myself. Empirically, it is not scary. The ceiling is high. It actually smells good, like cedar shavings and pine. And the chickens, a flock of Rhode Island Reds with meaty pink combs and ruffles of russet feathers, are clucking contentedly.

If there were anywhere to face down my fears—“Food Writer Blinded by Maniac Chickens”—this was it. I would walk in. Pick up an egg from one of the straw nests. Hand it to our tour leader. In theory, I could be back outside in less than a minute.

It helped that the class of New York City second graders that I was trailing didn’t appear frightened in the least. (And, really, how much experience with chickens could they possibly have?) So I pushed open the door and stepped inside. Instantly, there were a dozen chickens at my feet. But as I stepped toward one of the nests, they magically parted, like water moving around a sturdy rock in a river. I saw an egg, unguarded. The hen in the neighboring nest looked nonplussed as I reached out for it. When I picked it up, it was warm in my hand. Triumphantly, I turned, handed it to our guide and headed back outside into the Westchester sunshine.

OK, my daredevil poultry stunt probably wouldn’t impress the producers of Fear Factor. But the encounter is exactly the kind that the staff of the nonprofit Stone Barns Center wants visitors to experience. The 80-acre farm, picture-perfect, nestled in Pocantico Hills, offers children and adults the opportunity to experience life on the farm. A 30-minute drive or a 40-minute train ride from Grand Central, there’s no other farm so close to Manhattan that is set up to let you go egg collecting, see piglets frolicking in the mud, cook with the harvest from the vegetable patch and learn about the wonders of compost. A lot of people throw around the phrase “know where your food comes from.” At the Stone Barns Center, they mean it. Any food enthusiast or locavore worth his or her salt has heard of the Stone Barns, of course. It’s home to Blue Hill at Stone Barns, celebrated chef Dan Barber’s acclaimed restaurant, where vegetables are treated and displayed like precious gems and the kitchen proves nightly that there is a place in fine dining for humble cuts of meat such as lamb’s neck. The dining room is a magnet for committed ethical eaters— “Food You’d Almost Rather Hug Than Eat,” read the headline for then- New York Times restaurant critic Frank Bruni’s three-star review—and five-star celebrities: In 2010, First LadyMichelle Obama hosted a farmto- table lunch for the spouses of world leaders who were in New York for the United Nations General Assembly.

But Stone Barns offers far more than magnificent meals and highprofile diners. The working farm that supplies the restaurant welcomes visitors all year round. There are tours, lectures, cooking classes and workshops on subjects as varied as beekeeping and making herbal teas. (And most activities cost less than that pre-dinner cocktail at the restaurant.) Stone Barns also serves as a training center and model for young or beginning farmers who hope one day to go off and start farms of their own. “We’re within 30 miles of 30 million people,” says Jill Isenbarger, the Stone Barns Center’s executive director. “So we think we have an incredible opportunity to reach a wide variety of people who are interested in food, good eating and how food affects the environment and health.”

kids harvesting
Photograph: Catherine Yrisarri

Each summer 400 kids arrive for
Farm Camp, where they get their
hands dirty with daily chores and
learn to make seasonal recipes such
as bruschetta, zucchini fries and pesto.

Not Just a Pretty Face

The Stone Barns looks like the kind of farm you imagine: the ones that are depicted on TV commercials and cartons of organic milk. You know, the ones that don’t really exist. And yet, here it is. The granite Norman-style barns rise majestically amid the rolling pasture and fields of Pocantico Hills. Grapevines sit at the crest of one hill. Sheep, monitored by Stella, the center’s fluffy snowball of a guard dog, efficiently, and naturally, mow the lawns. Even the butter-yellow chicken-processing facility (a family-friendly term for slaughterhouse) looks like a pleasant place to spend the day.

That the property is so beautiful makes some people suspicious, even skeptical. This can’t really be a working farm. In fact, industrialist John D. Rockefeller Jr. commissioned the buildings in 1930 to serve as a dairy and vegetable farm, which remained active throughout the 1940s. As the decades passed, however, the buildings fell into disrepair. It wasn’t until the late 1990s that heir David Rockefeller, who had inherited the property, decided to resurrect the farm as a memorial to his wife, Peggy, a lifelong supporter of sustainable agriculture. The Rockefellers contributed the land, the buildings and capital funding to establish the restaurant, farm and education center.

“People who visit the Stone Barns Center for Food and Agriculture may wonder why this special place was created. It began with my dear wife, Peggy,” Rockefeller wrote in a dedication letter at the opening in May 2004. “Farming, for her, was a vocation that she held dear to her heart…. I decided that the best way to celebrate Peggy’s life and passion was to create a center where the threats to farmland and our food supply could be discussed, and ways to improve farming methods and agricultural policy could be explored.”

The Stone Barns Center’s ambition has grown over time. Each summer 400 kids arrive for Farm Camp, where they get their hands dirty with daily chores and learn to make seasonal recipes such as bruschetta, zucchini fries and pesto. During the school year, the center welcomes 10,000 schoolchildren both local and from neighboring New York City. (Twenty-five percent of the children’s visits are paid for by the Stone Barns scholarship fund.) They not only brave the chicken house but visit the greenhouses and the vegetable fields and taste whatever happens to be in season. On my tour, it was lemony sorrel, which was just about the only thing on the farm that the students didn’t universally embrace.

“Is there a trash can around here?” one boy asked after taking a bite. “No,” another sneered. “You have to put it in the compost pile.” Lesson learned.

I had expected organized programs like these for children. But I was surprised just how many activities Stone Barns offers for the casual, and curious, visitor. On an average summer weekend, there are as many as a dozen workshops and events such as “YesWe Can,” a lesson in how to make homemade jams, and the summer scavenger hunt, where children can win a prize for ferreting out a list of fruits and vegetables grown on the farm. There is also a host of less-structured visits that include guided and self-guided tours, including one where visitors “follow a frittata” around the farm, from the chicken houses to the vegetable fields and greenhouse.

The laziest visitors can spend a happy afternoon browsing at the Stone Barns farm stand and shop, with its beautifully appointed selection of botanical dishware, gardening provisions and children’s books. Lunch at the casual Blue Hill Café is an ideal way to get a taste of the farm: Run by Blue Hill chefs, a typical menu might include strawberry muffins, spring pea soup, a house-made bologna sandwich with pickled ramps, and grilled asparagus and goat-cheese focaccia.

Stone Barns’s year-long apprenticeship
has come to be viewed as a
kind of Harvard for aspiring farmers.

child gathering eggs
Photograph: Nicole Franzen

There Is an App for That

The newest addition to Stone Barns tours is the self-guided iPhone app. It begins with a video overview of the premises, explaining the unique cooperation between restaurant, farm and education center. Then, using an interactive map, visitors click on various stops around the farm. In the vegetable fields, farmer Jack Algiere explains how the land is divided up into 14 rotational blocks so that no one area has the same crop planted on it for at least seven years. At the apiary, a one-minute audio explains how the center’s bees—there may be as many as one million by August—pollinate the crops and why some of the hives are perched on scales. (The answer: Stone Barns participates in a NASAfunded study that is seeking to understand how climate change affects pollinators and honey production.)

Internally, there was much debate about whether the app was a good idea, admits executive director Isenbarger. After all, Stone Barns is a place where, in theory, you’re supposed to leave your iPhone behind and get your hands dirty. Two factors persuaded the staff that it was worth it. First, “you have to meet people where they are,” says Isenbarger. And people love their smart phones. More important, the app allows farmers to update the tour at any time. They can e-mail in new photos. Easily add a new audio update such as “today we are moving 500 tomato plants from the greenhouse into the fields.” The technology ensures that visitors get a tour that reflects what’s happening on the farm during their visit.

Another new, popular draw are the farm-totable cooking classes geared for kids, teens or adults. Participants take a 45-minute guided tour of the areas of the farm where the food they will cook comes from then move inside to the stunning Stone Barns kitchen to cook. One recent tour on a cold day taught a moody group of teenagers how to harvest parsnips. Two rules: Wear gloves because the leaves can irritate your skin. And the longer parsnips stay in the ground, the sweeter they become. Inside the warm kitchen, the teens became a bit sweeter as well. They grated parsnips to make fritters and roasted squash with cinnamon and buttery pecans. Some no doubt harbored dreams of a show on the Food Network. Others just wanted to improve their skills: “I already cook about three times a week at home,” said 15-year-old Matthew. “Because my mom works and my dad doesn’t cook. At all.”

One of the most in-demand classes at Stone Barns is beekeeping. Dan Carr teaches a fourpart workshop for newbies that shows them, over the course of a year, how to start and manage a hive. Attendees are usually a mixed group: Brooklyn hipsters who want to produce honey on the roof— just one hive can produce as much as 100 pounds of honey in a season— and Hudson Valley backyard gardeners who want to increase the number of pollinators for their vegetables and flowers. The first session is an indoor lecture on basic bee physiology behavior. But by spring, the students have donned bee suits and veils and are out getting hands-on experience. So far, not a single student has been stung.

class
Photograph left by Jonathan Young; right courtesy of Stone Barns

The 80-acre working farm offers tours,
lectures,
cooking classes and workshops
on subjects as varied
as
beekeeping and making herbal teas

Growing New Farmers

Bill Niman, the founder of the Niman Ranch, has been to an awful lot of farming conferences over the years. Many have been gloomy affairs, with presentations outlining the dire state of American agriculture: The average U.S. farmer is now 57 years old. Farmers over the age of 55 own more than half of American farmland. And so for Niman, the Young Farmers Conference at the Stone Barns was refreshing.

Held each December, a time when farmers of all ages can pause for some much-needed reflection, the meeting attracts 250 aspiring farmers with sessions about affordable farm equipment for small operations and innovative models for community-supported agriculture programs. “Here was a room full of enthusiastic entry-level farmers. They didn’t have agriculture degrees. They hadn’t grown up on farms,” Niman says. “I felt that there was a real future for sustainable agriculture.”

Helping to build a new future is the goal not only of the annual conference but of Stone Barns’s Growing Farmers Initiative. Each year, the Center hires 16 paid apprentices who learn by helping with the daily chores and becoming fully immersed in the farm’s operations. But they also spend time each week in the classroom and educating visitors.

Dan Carr, the livestock staffer who teaches beekeeping, started at Stone Barns as an apprentice in 2010. He had grown up on a ranch in Colorado and spent two years inMalawi while in the Peace Corps. But neither had prepared him for how to farm successfully in a sustainable manner. “It’s really difficult for a small farmer to take the time to teach young farmers. But here it’s part of the mission,” he says. “You not only get practical hands-on training, you get dedicated time to further your education at workshops and conferences.” Over the years, a Stone Barns apprenticeship has come to be viewed as a kind of Harvard for farming. “I drop the name a lot,” admits Emma Hoyt, a Columbia grad who apprenticed in the vegetable fields in 2007 and is now looking to start her own farm. “Everyone has heard of it.”

Stone Barns is keen to build on that reputation and share its expertise with small farmers far from Pocantico Hills. To that end, the center participates in research on cutting-edge techniques to breed diversity and sustainability. For example, Stone Barns farmers worked with plant geneticists at Cornell University to develop a new variety of squash, the honey nut. It is small, about four or five inches long, and has a more sophisticated flavor profile that Blue Hill chefs prefer over the traditional and ultra-sweet butternut squash. Chef Barber serves the honey nut roasted on his tasting menu with accompaniments such as smoked apple, pancetta marmalade and roasted and strained Blue Hill yogurt.

The center is also producing a detailed economic analysis of what it produces and earns from its greenhouse. The data will be useful to many small farmers, especially in the Northeast, where indoor growing can help to extend the season and boost farmers’ earnings. But the project is particularly relevant right now. Many greenhouses on the East Coast are sitting empty now that much of the cut-flower business has moved to South America. Helping farmers to understand how they can use and profit from the structures will help make new farmers successful, or at least sustainable.

“One of the functions of this place is to experiment and to share what we learn from our failures as much as we brag about our successes,” says Isenbarger.

The successes, of course, are what are most obvious to visitors. The animals are happy. The farmers are productive. Here, the concept of eating your vegetables is a treat, not a trial. It’s what, in a perfect world, you would see at every farm.

“The Stone Barns has a kind of ‘city-on-a-hill’ quality,” says Paul Greenberg, the author of Four Fish: The Future of the LastWild Food. “Of course not every community trying to be locavoracious can muster the beautiful aesthetics, the state-of-the-art greenhouses, the good smelling pigs. But Stone Barns is a shining example of hard work and good intentions coming together into a place where you’d like to linger.”

Even in the chicken house.

STONE BARNS CENTER FOR FOOD AND AGRICULTURE
630 Bedford Road, Pocantico Hills
914.366.6200

demonstration
Photograph courtesy of Stone Barns


No comments yet.

Leave a Reply