Courtesy of The Grange Restaurant and Local Market
¼ cup butter
2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
3 cups sliced wild ramps, greens separated from the stems and bulbs
1 tablespoon chopped green garlic
½ cup sliced shallot
Sea salt and black pepper
4 cups wild morel mushrooms, halved and cleaned
1 bunch asparagus
4 six-ounce skate wing fillets
¼ cup flour
4 tablespoons salad oil
For the ragout:
In a 4-quart saucepan on medium heat add half of the butter and half of the olive oil. When the butter has melted turn the heat to low, add the sliced ramp bulbs, stems, garlic and shallots. Cook gently with a pinch of salt and a few cracks of fresh black pepper until translucent. Add the morels and ramp greens and stems and continue to cook on low; when the ramps and morels begin to wilt add some more salt and pepper, check seasoning, remove from heat and stir in remaining butter. The butter will make its own sauce with the liquid that has come out of the veggies and morels. Split the ragout evenly onto 4 plates.
For the asparagus:
Heat a large cast-iron skillet, hot but not smoking hot.
Toss the asparagus with the remaining olive oil, season with salt and pepper, add to the skillet and char quickly on all sides; place over the ragout.
For the skate wing:
Dry the skate well and lightly coat both sides with flour, dusting off excess.
Heat a large stainless-steel sauté pan, add salad oil when the pan lightly smokes and then add the skate. Cook till golden brown on each side and place on top of the asparagus.
THE GRANGE RESTAURANT AND LOCAL MARKET
1 Ryerson Road, Warwick
The first time I visited the Grange in Warwick, I found chef/owner Jim Haurey outside on a rainy day lying flat on his back under the rear stairs to the kitchen looking more like an auto mechanic working on an axle than a chef and local food enthusiast. To be fair, the restaurant was closed that day, and finding Haurey in this somewhat compromising, but industrious, position fixing a problematic pipe just reinforced the idea that his dedication to his food, as well as his restaurant, knows no bounds. Haurey is a no-nonsense chef trafficking in the finest of local cuisine and maintaining robust ties to the local agricultural economy. The ever-changing menu at the Grange reflects this fact with both vision and zeal. Haurey has been kind enough to share with us a favorite spring dish of his worth every bit of the effort. —E. Steinman